I have now spent a week in China.  It was definitely a week of new  experiences.  I would have posted this  earlier except Friday was another first, this one slightly unfortunate.  I got a cold. I basically slept the entire  day.  It was almost frustrating though  because my host family kept putting their hand to my head checking for a fever  and then saying "Oh you're okay."  I  think they finally understood that I was sick when I didn't eat anything until  eight o'clock at night. 
I'll start with talking about the sick thing before moving  on to my adventures the rest of the week.   I woke up around 4 AM Friday morning with a churning stomach, a runny  nose, a pounding headache and the feeling that I was very cold.  I know for a fact that it was as hot or  hotter than it had always been as I had myself wrapped in a pretty thick  blanket.  I was able to sleep fitfully  for two more hours before waking up again.   This time I knew it wasn't going away and so I called my resident  directors.  They said that it was around  the time when everyone gets sick and that when my family got up to have one of  them call my resident directors.  (I've  decided that I'll use my resident directors' Chinese names.  Despite their encouragement for all of us to  keep a blog while abroad, I'm pretty sure they'd rather remain fairly  anonymous.  My RDs are Wei Lao Shi and He  Lao Shi. They're really wonderful people.) I have always liked the fact that my  family slept late until yesterday.  I sat  at the kitchen table, waiting, for what felt like a really long time but was  really only about 40 minutes.  After  that, I just slept so not really anything interesting there.  
Monday was the first day of school and it was very  confusing. That's about the only way to describe it.  The morning lessons were fine, a little  stressful, because there were times when I didn't know what was going on but it  was fine for the most part.  We did one  of those getting-to-know-names games where we all stood in a circle and called  "Dūn (our name). Dūn (our name). Dūn wán (someone else's name)."  Dūn means squat so every time we were called  on we would have to squat.  We would then  call the next person with the phrase Dūn wán which effectively means I'm done  squatting it's your turn.  Besides the  game, it was a lot of question and answer with the students.  The teachers would ask things like "What's  your favorite season?" or "What's your favorite animal?"  Now, I had never covered animals in my school  in the U.S. so I was confused when that question came around.  Luckily one of the other students explained  dòng wù meant animal, but the only animals I could remember were dogs, cats and  horses.  I'm not sure if the others in my  class had covered animals yet either because a disarming percent said dog.  
Our teachers Tóng Lao Shi and Zhuāng Lao Shi speak almost no  English. They know a couple words, but vocabulary was mainly pictures of things  and actions in hopes that we would understand. 
Lunchtime was the first and unfortunately the last time all  the NSLI-Y kids sat together at lunch. Each and everyday now we're required to  intermingle with the Chinese students.  I  mainly sit with my host sister and her friends.   I can only remember on of her friends name and the name I do remember is  the English name. I'm supposed to be talking with them and making friends, but  really I'm just sitting there and listening.   I don't know enough Chinese to actually have a conversation.  It's frustrating.  I know I'm not going to learn anything if I'm  not immersed, but the silences (or the rabid Chinese interspersed with my host  sister explaining something in English) is going to drive me mad.  
Culture class was an interesting first.  Our lessons all week were about Chinese  music.  I used to think music was the  universal language.  I've easily been proven  wrong.  Our teachers give lectures in  Chinese.  I get about one word every ten  and the words I do understand are like "my" "this"  "music" and "Chinese".  Our first lesson was on traditional Chinese  music.  We focused on láo dòng hào zi, ya  yuè and mín jiān gē qu.  While the  lecture was going on, I was completely and utterly confused.  Luckily, the kids in my class (We're the  panda class because panda's are slow and we're the beginner class) were just as  lost as I was.  After I got home though,  I looked up each word individually and was able to figure out what had been  going on.  The láo dòng hào zi is a call  and response song sung by groups of men that in ancient times would haul boats  into shore.   It's a strong and deep  sound.  Basically only one man, the  overseer is really singing.  The others  are all chanting something like Ho Yeh.   Ya yuè is music that was performed at the emperor's court.  It literally translates to refined  music.  It's typically got poetic lyrics  and lots of dancing women. I however spent a long time fixated on a couple  words from this part of the lecture that literally turned out to be the name of  a musical instrument.  I still don't  really know what mín jiān gē qu is.  I  looked up the words but it translates to basically folk songs or songs sung by  nationals, but our entire lesson was on folk songs so I'm still confused.  
Monday was also the first time we went on a school-sponsored  trip.  Our schedules said we were going  to do community service.  Our teachers  talked about us visiting an elementary school.   Our bus dropped us off at a University.   The campus was beautiful and there were a bunch of college students  waiting with a banner, but it still wasn't the best sort of way to spend the  afternoon.  We were given an entire spiel  on how the school was International and very good in broken English.  I was handed some sort of business card  despite the fact none of the other students were and I watched as the mid to  higher level students happily conversed with the college students.  I kind of just sat there and looked through  the brochure.  It was just a really  awkward experience.  It got even stranger  though when one of my resident directors tried to negotiate a program with the  school for the school she works for (She works for Harvard.  She actually told my host mother she works at  some school in Boston because if people knew she worked at Harvard, she would  be mobbed.)   They gave us bottles of stuff that despite  having water written on the label in three languages was definitely not  water.  The best part of the whole  "community service" was the bus ride back to school.  I spent it talking to He Lao Shi and a couple  of my classmates.  I can't remember the  last time I laughed so hard.  Monday was  just confusing.
Tuesday I rode public transit for the first time.  My host sister and I had to take the bus home  from the grandparent's house because the mother needed to go back to work.  It wasn't crowded and we even got to  sit.  One of the weirdest things though  is the fact that all the toddlers/babies effectively don't wear pants.  They're no diapers and there are holes in the  clothes for the child to do their business.   I know this is gross beyond belief, but it's one of the weirdest things  I've encountered here and I felt the need to share.  Needless to say, with a little boy sitting  across from me, I was extremely happy we were the first stop.  
Wednesday I saw my first car accident.  I feel the need to site this because Chinese  people are either the best or the worst drivers in the world.  I was seriously terrified of their  roads.  (On Thursday, I did the  traditional Chinese thing and held Colleen's hand as we crossed a particular  busy road during our scavenger hunt thing.) Buses squeeze through tight  spaces.  Cars turn whenever. There seems  to be no rhyme or reason to anything and yet nothing ever seems to happen.  I mean in my host mother's car, it is  physically impossible to wear a seat belt and even in my host father's car, my  host sister never wears one.   It's like  a strange sort of magic.  All the cars,  buses and motorcycles just avoid each other, and pedestrians know that they  NEVER have the right of way and just continue on normally.  
Wednesday I also had the best ice cream thing of my entire  life.  Colleen and I went exploring  during our extremely long lunch hour.  We  discovered a store behind one of the buildings.   It began as a search for the NSLI-Y office, which actually has air  conditioning.  If you learn nothing else  from my blog, understand China is hot and humid, and the air conditioning can't  really be felt and there's something weird about the filtration that gives you  a runny nose all the time.  So anyway, we  find this little store behind the school.   We immediately rushed to the little freezer section. There were actually  so many different types. I chose to be moderately adventurous and chose a mango  popsicle thing.  We walk up to the  counter, each with a five Yuan note in our hands and try to buy our ice  cream.  Apparently, what we weren't told  was that the store only accepted the meal cards that all the proper students  had.   Luckily, my Chinese teacher Zhuang  Lao Shi appeared right at the moment explained the predicament and bought us  the ice cream.  She even refused  payment.  (I mean in total it was about 6  Yuan, which is roughly 1 US dollar, but it was still really nice.)
I got to play the er hu, a traditional Chinese stringed  instrument.   It actually made me miss my  cello so much.  It was silly, but I kept  holding the bow wrong, because I was so used to my cello bow hold.  I was so irrationally happy because of that  little instrument.
I also had my first cup of tea.  I have a tea addiction.  There really isn't any other way to phrase  that. I can't stand coffee, so tea is my constant form of caffeine. You'd think  because my family would drink a lot of tea.   Especially considering we have an entire tea ceremony table set up on  the porch.  But my first cup of genuine  Chinese tea (not counting the two I had on the plane) was from the school  cafeteria.  
I now have keys to the apartment.  It really gave me a feeling of  independence.  Before I was stuck at home  for two-four hours by myself everyday. Now I can go out exploring by myself  although I haven't had a real chance yet.   
Wednesday night, Wei Lao Shi and He Lao Shi came over to the  apartment with the assistant principal for a host family visit.  They apparently go and visit everyone, but it  was still unnerving, especially because they were all staring at me.  The assistant principal would speak very  quickly to me and expect me to be able to answer.  Wei Lao Shi kept telling me to relax, but  honestly how was I supposed to relax?  
Thursday was actually a lot of fun.  I had my first quiz, which as you can guess  actually wasn't any fun, but the rest of the day was pretty awesome. Wei Lao  Shi and He Lao Shi took us on an excursion after school.  We were divided up into groups of three, one  from each class, and given a list of things to do.  My group was Colleen and at 7 feet, the  tallest person on our trip, a boy nicknamed Egg. Our first task was to get on  the 701 bus and get to an underground mall.   We crammed ourselves onto the bus and the annoyed faces of the locals  were actually amusing.  We may have  gotten off a stop too early but I'm entirely not sure, because the mall seemed  to be almost right across the street.  
In the mall, we were required to bargain.  I've been nervous about bargaining.  It's a very important part of Chinese  life.  There's a well-known agreement  that merchants are trying to rip you off and you're going to give them a price  that is completely unreasonable.  Then  you meet in the middle.  I didn't want to  start with anything too extravagant so I found a gift for my little sister and  decided to go from there.  The woman  wanted 30 Yuan, so I offered her ten.  We  talked for a little bit.  I would get  reassuring looks from Colleen.  I would  tell her that it was way too expensive.   The final straw came, when I set the toy back on the shelf and began to  walk out of the shop.  She stopped me and  offered the toy for fifteen Yuan.  I took  it but didn't feel all that great about it until later, when my drink at  Starbucks cost more.  (I'll have more on  that in a second.)  
So the next part of our adventure was to find the movie  theater.  Each group was given a  different location but they were all around the dayanta (Wild Goose Pagoda).  One of the other groups had the Starbucks and we met up with them later to  celebrate our victory after nearly two hours of walking.  Once we were in the Pagoda Square I was able  to navigate us all the way across to around where I remember my host mother  mentioned a movie theater.  We found two  places that said movies on the sign, but they weren't what we had listed and  they also had bumper cars in them (Needless to say we remembered them because  bumper cars will definitely sound good at some point).  The movie theater turned out to be on the  third and fourth floor of a mall in a corner.   I'm pretty sure we had the hardest one.   
So anyway, after we celebrated our success with Iced Shaken  Lemon Tea from Starbucks (and there seriously needs to be a petition to get  this drink on the American menu), we all needed to get home for dinner.  I had two options: I could go back to the  school with the group and split the bill for a taxi (which would be safe and  very effective as we weren't far enough away for it to cost too much but still  far enough away that it was a 40 minute walk if we didn't get lost) or walk  home which seemed fairly close on my map.   After a while, my group still couldn't get a taxi, so I decided to  walk.  I texted my host mother and she  told me to go to my host grandmother's instead.   This shouldn't have been a problem.    My grandmother lives very close to the dayanta and I sort of knew the  way.  Except, I didn't have her house on  my map of places.  School? Yeah.  Home?   Of Course.  Grandmother's House  where I am everyday to eat dinner?  Sorry  No.  
I made my way Art Museum, saw my fourth movie theater of the  day and promptly realized I had no idea where to go from there.  I should have been completely freaked  out.  I was lost in a city of 8 Million  People, except I wasn't.  Xi'an never  feels as big as it is.  Sure there are a  lot of buildings, but the people are pretty spread out and there is a lot of  greenery.   I just kept walking.  Pretty soon I realized I didn't recognize any  of the statues.  I simply called my host  mother and she said to make my way back to the art museum and she'd give me  directions from there.  I did it wasn't  all that far.  
Then she told me to walk two stoplights east (towards the  movie theater) and turn left at the third stoplight.  I did exactly that and didn't recognize the  place anymore than I did previously.  I  walked back to the third stoplight and called again.  It took forever to explain that I was at the  third stoplight at a specific plaza.  A  few minutes later my host mother drove up in her little red car.  I was right where I needed to be.  She had meant that it was past the third stoplight  a little bit on my left, not to turn let.   Still at that point, I was hot and sweaty and just happy to finally be  able to get out of the sun. 
I know I've been absent for a while.  As you can tell, I'm busy and still  adjusting.  Yesterday was fairly  interesting.  I saw the City Wall, but I  have to go now.  My host family is taking  me swimming and I'm ready to jump for joy.    And then we're going to a Chinese buffet with Western and Chinese  food.  I'm not sure what to expect.  My opinion of their "Western food" is pretty  low.  They suggested I open a restaurant Saturday  after I made lunch that consisted of Italian noodles, with some weird sauce  from the supermarket, sautéed onions and extra Parmesan cheese.  I've also tried their "pizza" which is most  definitely not pizza and is basically microwaved bread with cheese.  But still, I get to go swimming!
For some reasons, my pictures aren't showing up.  Hopefully I'll find a solution soon, but if  not I'll post them when I get back.  
 
Oh Laura, I love reading you blogs....I feel like you are talking just to me. I love how you detailed your lost way to your host grandparents house. I love that your host mother was there to pick you up and show you the way..... I love you so much Laura. You are an amazing woman!
ReplyDeleteYour blogs are amazing. Your stories bring China to us. Glad that you are feeling better. Love ya, Grandma
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